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Old 01-22-2004, 05:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I've got a bleeder!

So, the wife calls me at work and tells me that we don't have any hot water. Okay, no biggie..pilot prolly went out. Nay, says she, there is no water coming out of the pipes when the hot water is turned on

Okay, now I've got a problem. Got cold water, but no hot water. Told her I'd take care of it when I came home from work ( early for once ). Turned the hot water on at the faucet closest to the hot water heater..we've got water, but none from the furthest from the hot water heater....hmph!

So, I let it run, figuring the heat will thaw the pipe out and free it up again.

Oh, it sure worked! Not only did the water start flowing, but it started spraying everywhere!

Apparently the job I did sewing up this places underbelly 2 years ago wasn't good enough at that spot, and the record cold weather broke its back

After crawling on my belly like a worm to get to the pipe ( it happens to be right above the 3 axles...tight fit ) I find the culprit. Yup, it expanded and cracked the copper pipe.

Luckily for me, whoever had replaced the original pipes put shut off valves before the area that burst, so I shut the valve off. We've got hot water for a shower ( thank god ) and laundry ( needs to be done ), but none for dishes ( that can be worked around ). Unfortunately, it's still unprotected- no insulation, and I still have to fix it.

I wonder if I'd have any luck trying to solder the break shut? Considering that the pipe had to have gotten enlarged from the freezing, it's going to be a major pain to fit new fittings on there.

Any suggestions? I'm not tackling this til tomorrow.

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Old 01-22-2004, 05:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd replace that section of the pipe. I don't think it be a good idea to sauder it shut because the pipe metal is already weakend from the expanding and shrinking. Get a lentgh of new pipe for the section and get a pipe thing, forget what its called, that thing where you can put the grooves on the end parts of the pipe and then screw them in tightly with some locktight to keep that section in solid.

Don't forget insulation too.

Edit: btw im no plumber just what i'd do if it was me. I do belive we have a resident plumber here but not sure of the name.
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I whole heartedly agree with Neo as the expanded section of pipe needs to be cut-out and replaced as it is weakened to a point that it probably would just continue to fail on you in the future without even needing to freeze. A couple of slip connectors and section of pipe and your off to the races again. This time dont forget to insulate it after fixing it
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing, especially since I'd have a hard time making sure there wasn't any water in that part of the pipe while trying to solder it.....

Wish I could afford/justify having a plumber get under there and fix it, but it would probably cost me an arm and a leg, and if it was a fat plumber, he wouldn't be able to do it anyway!

Not to mention the fact that I have to reinsulate that whole section again....
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Not to mention the fact that I have to reinsulate that whole section again
Can't you just insulate the pipe with the crashbar style foam? At least until you can get in and properly insulate the whole area?
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think it's called coupler (or coupling?) Neo. I used to crawl under houses and fix 'em like that. It's a proper way to fix 'em too. Great mud baths too

\o/ Billy
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ah thanks wju, been so long since I used one and I had plumb forgot the name of the thingybob!. Thanks. Pretty cool gadget too. Used to use them all the time when I worked in the cemetary back in 89/90. Had to fix broken pipes all the time.
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'll probably use some of that Gomer, but I have a gaping hole under my trailor. At the moment, whilst gazing skyward, I can see the subfloor, all the sewer and water lines, and a portion of my bathtub, so I need to get some real insulation in there also. the hard part is the fact that it is such a tight squeeze under there, that I can't put a big sheet of inch thick solid foam across it like it I did everywhere else. The fact that I have 3 axles to fight with also makes the whole task a trial.
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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As a plumber for many years, I would stronly recommend cutting out and replacing it. The mere frustration of trying to seal the split pipe could be very frustrating, besides cold wet work. Your best bet is to start with clean pipe and fittings. My @ cents. good Luck.
Mntsnow, is right, Slip couplings and new pipe. There is nothing worse than having to make the repair twice, Gomer has a good idea too, Insulate the pipe, or if you are really ambitious, they make special electrical wrap for frozen pipes that uses 115v house power.

Last edited by dday; 01-22-2004 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Talk

Not a plumber, nor did I play one on TV. That out of the way, I would cut out both sides of the pipe and drain it as well as possible( sounds like you know about water in pipes and a torch) and repair a section that is long enough that you can reach easily. Then you can pack the area with pink insulation and cover the area with plastic. That may hold you until spring. Good Luck! Oh yeah, water and torch, heating a pipe with water in it can cause explosions and bad scalds. Think steam, pressure and where will all of it go? if I heat this pipe up? With one end of a pipe open, heat end away from opening and move to opening. This will run water ahead of heat and out opening. Just a thought, change to plastic?
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