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Old 08-18-2003, 11:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi Guys,

I just recently laid two yards of topsoil mix and 1 yard of topsoil/manure mix in our front yard. Before laying of any of the dirt I did a major weed kill of the old stuff. Then laid it on top. The area's that I had weed kill on it no weeds are growing. that is a godo thing.

So we spread the grass seed and fertilizer before laying down the topsoil/manure layer. I water lightly twice a day. Morning and late afternoon.

I started this about 2 1/2 weeks ago. I got fairly nice coverage happening now. Have the areas blocked off to prevent walking on the lawn.

However on the side that didn't have weeds before all this I did not treat except in selected areas. I am noticing that I got weeds growing as of yesterday. They just started sprouting in the middle of all my beautiful new grass growing.

Now what I want to do is kill these weeds off while they are in thier infancy. However just about every weed killer and weed and feed product I have edit: read on the internet says...

DO NOT USE ON NEWLY PLANTED LAWNS. Also these products say that on newly planted lawns to wait till at least 4 mowings have transpired.

Ugh, So what do I do? Do I need to risk walking on it and pull them all out by hand? They are young enough to where I can pull out the roots with them. However this would be a time consuming process and not really wantting to do that.

Am I wattering too much? so What should I do? water less and let them go and wait till spring to use weed and feed?

From reasearch on the net it appears it may be the chickweed. they have 2 to 3 oblong leaves that taper to a sharp point.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.


Last edited by NeoStarO1; 08-18-2003 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 08-18-2003, 12:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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When the lawn is more developed use a spray killer like Spectracide for lawns (not the one that kills grass and weeds).
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi MTAtech,

that is the ones I been looking at, it says on the bottle not to use on newly planted lawns and wait till at least 3 mowings have been done. It was by Scotts.

How long before a lawn is fully developed? the bag says first mowing can take place once its 3 inches long and um if i did that it would yank the grass right out. Plus not all of it is 3 inches. Some places its 3 others 4 others almost 5 and other spots just popping up.
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey Neo, I'm not exactly sure when your lawn is "grown" enough to start spraying the dickens out of those weeds, but I think this link might be of some use to you.

I'm a little linky, short and stout...


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Old 08-18-2003, 09:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Martoch,

Not so sure on that, childrens shampoo and beer?
Might end up getting the lawn drunk!

Page was also last updated in march of 99.
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Old 08-18-2003, 09:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Before you do your first mowing, sharpen your mower! If you have a rotary make sure you can shave with it!. Reel types are a little more gentle...
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Old 08-18-2003, 09:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by NeoStarO1
Thanks Martoch,

Page was also last updated in march of 99.
So just what are you trying to say???



Ok, so I didn't notice how old the link was...but hey, are you saying WAY back in '99 they didn't know how to treat lawns?


Here's some advice I just thought of...really, I did...I didn't copy/paste it I swear.




The perfect home doesn't always come complete with a perfect lawn. But with proper care, an ailing lawn can be brought back to life and become the envy of the neighborhood, so here are some lawn care and mower maintenance tips:

Fertilize

Rapid spring growth steals a lot of nutrients in the soil, so it's best to replace the missing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium with lawn fertilizer. Feed the lawn about a month after it starts growing and then feed it again about a month before it goes dormant. Use a top-quality fertilizer with a high percentage of slow-release nitrogen. Doing so encourages a deep root system, and deep roots are the key to a healthy stand of grass.

Water correctly and fight weeds

Look for clues to know when to water. The leaves will curl to conserve moisture and will turn bluish-green. When you walk across the lawn and look back, you will see your footprints. When you discover these signs, give your lawn a long drink of water.

For healthy roots, water infrequently but water deeply, which trains roots to grow deep in the soil for strength. Deep roots help your lawn better survive a hot dry spell. By the time you see crabgrass leaves, the battle with this weed is already lost for the season. Crabgrass can only be fought with a pre-emergence herbicide before the crabgrass seeds germinate and sprout. How do you know when to spray? Watch for the forsythia bushes in your neighborhood to bloom (these upright growing bushes have bright yellow blossoms that appear very early in the spring). If no forsythia bushes are in sight, call your local nursery for advice.

Dandelions are broadleaf weeds. Wait until after they sprout and have leaves, and then hit them with a post-emergence herbicide. This weed killer is absorbed into the leaves and is circulated down into the root system. You get the best results in spring when the weeds are growing.

Mow

Mowing is healthy because it trims away the oldest part of the plant and also encourages a lawn to spread and thicken to choke out weeds.

Mow on the high side. A higher cut helps ensure a deeper root system. For bluegrass and fescue, mow at about 3 to 3 ½ inches. For Bermuda and centipede grass, mow at 1 to 2 inches. Mow St. Augustine grass at 3 inches. Before you even start the mower, walk your lawn and search for objects that could be thrown by the mower blade.

When mowing a steep slope of grass with a lawn tractor, mow up and down for greatest stability. With a walk-behind mower, mow side to side. That way, if you trip and fall, the mower is less likely to tumble on top of you. If the hillside is really ominous, get creative and plant a ground cover instead. Don't compromise your safety.

Maintain your mower

A well-maintained mower is not only safer; it will also serve you longer. Read the operator's manual and follow these tips.


Mud and stuck-on grass clippings can alter your mower's performance, so give your mower a bath with the outside hose, and then check for loose hardware.


Drain the old crankcase oil and replace it with clean oil. Also replace the oil filter and fuel filter according to the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual.


If your mower won't start, the spark plug could be fouled or damaged. Use a socket wrench with a deep socket to unscrew the old plug. After you pull it, inspect the porcelain area for cracks. If it's damaged, replace it. If the electrode end is dirty, clean it, and then be sure to set the gap for the proper distance. The operator's manual should give you all the information you need.


If your mower has an electric starter and the machine is slow to start, it may be time to recharge or replace an old battery. Examine the electrolyte level. The level should be 1/4th inch above the plates and not up to the filler tube neck. Always use distilled water to refill a battery.


Use regular unleaded gasoline with 87 octane. For two-cycle engines, you'll have to mix the gas with oil according to the manufacturer's directions.


Don't sharpen your mower blade to a razor's edge because the metal edge will crack and peel back and will shred (not cut) your grass.

Last updated August 18, 2003


Last edited by Martoch; 08-18-2003 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 08-18-2003, 11:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks martoch,
I don't belive I'll get a mowing in this year. Getting close to the rain season.

I do think however I may have given it too much water.
I had been giving it a light to med watering twice a day. So may have been me.

Yes I do need to take my mower in for tuneup. already told tony im not mowing the lawn without tune up first.

Also don't own this place, only reason we did this cuz we are tired of a dumpy neighborhood and we never watered before because of the high water/sewers rates here and decided hell with it. We wanted a peaceful place to look at while we have our morning coffee. Got tired of looking at dirt.

We had thought we were going to move by sept but it didn't work out. So we are just trying to make the best out of a crappy situation and doing the front lawn was more like a temp fix so we wouldn't feel so depressed looking at dirt.
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
We wanted a peaceful place to look at while we have our morning coffee. Got tired of looking at dirt.
Good for you! Your neighbors will like it, too, plus, who knows...You may inspire THEM to do something about THEIR lawns! It all starts with just one inspired person!

And don't worry overmuch about that little weed patch. You'll just have to pull 'em before they get "established", then once the lawn is going good, it'll take care of most of them after that. Believe me, lawncare is NOT rocket science!
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Old 08-19-2003, 12:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks knot.
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