Anyone worked with Shellac?

I'm thinking I'm going to finish the knotty pine with it.
I've gotten some clear and I'm going to mix some amber in with it to get (hopefully) a pale yellow color.
Any tips or warnings?

(we just spent the last 3 days putting it up, I've discovered I'm the Queen of the Chopsaw )

[sharder8]

I've discovered I'm the Queen of the Chopsaw

And the Queen of the Double post I see!!

Harder

What in the world are you talking about??? Hmmmmmm??

[NeoStarO1]

one benifit of being a mod, can cover your own tracks.

[sharder8]

Now that was a quick removal of a double post!!

Back to topic . . .

I've done a little shellacing (wood as well as a couple idiots ) and a couple tips I've learned are:

1. Check the temperatures of the wood, shellac, and room. While your at it, watch the humidity in the drying room as well.

2. Many very thin coats work best!

3. Allow ample time between coats for drying.

4. Make sure that the drying room is as dust free as possible.

5. When mixing the shellac, stir gently, never shake. The fewer the air bubbles, the better.

These are the main tips that I can think of, and I had my best results when following them.

Harder

Actually it's the only benefit I can think of

watch the humidity in the drying room as well.


Watch it do what?

[DaveLewis]

Ventilation!!!! You may get a pretty good headache - just like a day after without the night before. So open those windows.

[thekingofpain]

Ive got alot of T+G pine (walls and ceilings) in 2 houses---guess I told ya before---> I like an oil finish (Watco) as it ages continually to an exceptional golden patina that increases on a daily basis---if you seal the pine it all stops unless the suns beatin on it...

An oil finish is simply wiped on and no bugs are killed (Shellac is made from dead insects) eeew...

Edit---> Try your chosen finish or a few different finishes on a scrap section and look at it in the light of the rooms your are gonna apply it in---

[Knothead]

Hi, Surreal!

Shellac is a very easy-to-use, and very forgiving wood finish.

Did you know that Shellac is actually bug poop? long story. Anyway....

First, get a gallon of Denatured Alcohol, and a coffee can for your brushes. Also, get a pack of 220 grit sandpaper, and a pack of #0000 steeel wool. Plus a can of Shellac. And a can of Minwax Finish Wax. And fairly decent brush. Now you're ready.

Shellac is one of the easiest, and nicest, finishes to accomplish. First, lay down a nice sloppy coat. Finesse does not matter. You don't work shellac like a Varnish. The idea is to just coat the wood with it, don't worry about brush strokes.

Wait about three hours, then lay down another sloppy coat, but do not "over-brush" ....(that's what I mean by "sloppy coat",) Shellac, like brushing Lacquer, re-awakens itself when you brush it, so you want to limit the re-activation.

So just add the coats, with a minimum of brushing. Sloppy like.

After a MINIMUM of three coats, you'll likely be looking at the result, and going, "Why, that Knothead, I've RUINED this wood, it looks AWFUL, I'm gonna find him and knock his block off!"

It's cool, now comes the finessing:

You take your #220 grit sandpaper, and give the finish a LIGHT (and I do mean LIGHT) sanding, just to "level" the surface (in a rough way).

Now you take your #0000 steel wool and rub the surface until it has a uniform dull sheen. (Tip: unroll the steel wool, then re-roll it into a nice pad that covers the area to your liking. )

Now, you take your wax and follow the directions...when you rub the dried wax off, you will have a finish on your wood that is a pleasure to see and feel.

This a guaranteed, tried-and-true method.