Auto subwoofer vs home sub

[charmler]

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[crazyray]

There are no absolutes about using a "car audio" sub in a home situation. The key is choosing a driver (sub) that will match your box and amplifier and deliver respectable bass. Carefully calculate the internal volume of your box, taking into account the thickness of the material it is made from as well as any internal braces. Post your figures and I'll be glad to give you a hand.

[Virus]

I am presently using a Kicker Solo-Baric 12a in my home stereo. I also have a Eclipse 8812, but I wasn't able to have it in the same room as my TV. It's magnet was much too strong.

I am not sure how strong the magnet is on the IMPPs. My guess is that it may be a problem. If you are ordering this sub online. Find someone who has this sub that will let you test it.

Subs designed for Small Box Sealed enclosures, do not like to run in a box that isn't to spec. Not only will it sound bad, it may also damage the sub and could void your warrenty. Make extra sure the box is the right size. I would build a new box if I were you. Anything less then 3/4" LDF could break appart from the pressure. If you go this route use 3/4 MDF wood.

You didn't say what model number of amp you have. So I don't know if you would have enough power to run the IMPP sub. You will need at least 150W RMS to run that sub. Just incase you don't know, most home amps can't be bridged (I know someone who didn't know this and blew his amp).

[Warthog]

No powered amplifier for the sub? Just a box?

I dunno.......as far as home audio goes, I would never build one. IMO, you can't get even close to the same quality as manufactured subs are (Boston, Klipsch).

Warthog

[crazyray]

Dead wrong, Warty...

The subwoofer is the last home of the hardcore DIYer. One can, with a little knowledge, build a powered sub cheaper and better than all but the high end. Sub drivers from Adire and Parts Express are especially good in the performance to price ratio.

You can often use a power amp or even an old receiver to power these subs, especially if their signal will be provided by a home theater receiver (which will include the needed crossover and level adjustments.)

Check this link for just one example

http://www.hometheatertalk.com/DIY_P...b/sonosub.html

[Warthog]

I've never seen a woofer that you can buy separately that is as good as prefab.

Where do you get amplifiers for them?

I am aware of Adire but also am kinda shaky of them since they aren't "mainstream".

One thing that would keep me away is building the box.....car audio is different. Slap some carpet on the thing and it's awesome. Home audio you have to have the tools to build a kick @$$ box (make perfect cuts) and sand it, etc. etc.

Warthog

[crazyray]

Yes, you must do some woodworking...

Here are some stats on the Adire Dharman sub; it uses one 12" sub in a ported enclosure. The stats are courtesy of Tom Nousaine (sometimes known as "Mr. Bass").

quote:
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As promised, here's the results:
Average SPL 25-62 Hz: 107.9 dB
Average SPL 20-62 Hz: 105.9 dB
Bass Extension: 20 Hz @ 96 dB SPL
Maximum Output: 114.6 dB SPL @ 32 Hz
Here's the 10% THD limit SPLs Tom measured in his large 7500 cubic foot room:

20 Hz: 96 dB SPL
25 Hz: 102 dB SPL
32 Hz: 114.6 dB SPL (system at maximum)
40 Hz: 111.8 dB SPL (system at maximum)
50 Hz: 108.1 dB SPL
62 Hz: 103.1 dB SPL

Tom stated that the output and extension put this unit in the top quartile of all subwoofers without regard to cost. None too shabby, for a $599 powered subwoofer.

Anyway, I hope this puts the whole concern over the subwoofer to bed. It's a beast, especially down low. I hope this is enlightening to all.

BTW, Tom Nousaine did notice a small amount of grille rattle just before full SPL output between 20 and 40 Hz; it's less than it was before, but still if you're looking to listen at extreme levels, it may be best to remove the grille.

Dan Wiggins
Adire Audio

Note that this powered sub sells for $599 and performs in the top 25% of all subs Nousaine has tested REGARDLESS of cost.

The driver used is a Shiva, which sells for ~$120. The car audio world has caught on to this sub, which is an absolute bargain.

A very versatile driver, the Shiva works well in a moderately sized sealed box as well as larger ported enclosures of various sizes.

[charmler]

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[crazyray]

That is a small box for a 15" sub. I estimate the internal volume at about 2.75 cu ft. That will work very well with the Parts Express 12" DVC sub, currently on sale for $99.90, part number 295-185, but the enclosure would have to be ported (use a tuned vent made of PVC pipe). You would also need to make an adapter plate out of .75 inch MDF to cover the hole and mount the 12" DVC on.

This driver will work fine with your amp.

The coils and caps comprise a passive crossover. This is a filter circuit that sends the bass to the sub, and LIKELY (?) has connections to send the rest to your main 2 speakers. If your Sony unit has a built-in sub crossover and level control, you DO NOT want the passive crossover. Remove it. Leave the connectors if possible, as long as there are 2 pairs (i.e. + and - for each of the two voice coils, connecting to the corresponding speaker outs on your Nikko amp.)



Here's a link to some DIY subs, many of which use the 12" DVC from Parts Express...

http://members.rogers.com/viperoni/A...hive/Index.htm

Good luck! (Any more questions?) Ask about the proper port at this link...

www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl


Any more questions? I'll check back...

[Virus]

With ported or bandpass enclosures there is a lot of precision and calculating involved. But with sealed small box enclosures. Get the internal volume right, build it solid, and you can't mess up.

I stay away from powered subs. I prefer an external amplifier. Right now I am using a Marantz MA700. I am very happy with it and it works perfectly with my present sub.



I just realised that was a DVC sub. So that amp will do fine.

22" x 12" x 18" / 1728 = 2.76 cu. in.

2.76 - 0.111 (sub displacement) = 2.65

That is way too large of a box for that sub.

You may be able to get away with a 2.2 cu. in. box, but not 2.65.
At 2.2 your RMS would drop 25W - 50W per voice coil. You would have a deeper sound, but it would sound a little loose. At 2.65 you would be bottoming out that sub a lot and it would sound ugly and weak.

If you want to use that box with that sub. You will have to load the inside up with 0.6 cu. in. of extra MDF.