Auto gurus needed...

[Gomer]

I swear we need a seperate forum for this... but here's the deal.

92 lumina sedan, 80K 3.1 V6

While braking (somewhat hard), and turning to the left, I get a weird rubbing/moaning noise from the LF wheel. It isn't a constant noise, it seems to occur about every 2/3 of a revolution the wheel makes. It also doesn't happen continuously, but only as the steering wheel passes through certain points. I can feel it (the noise) in the steering wheel somewhat as well.

If I am at a stop, say in the turn lane, and accelerate while turning left, it will do the same thing.

I had the front end inspected today, and everything was tight. Brakes are new as well. Any ideas?

[Kuasimodem]

I had a similar problem with my 89 Olds Cutlass Supreme (same drivetrain).

It turned out to be a wheel bearing preparing to fail, I figured it out when the bearing decided to stop turning

On these cars it's pretty easy to replace, I did it in my driveway since I didn't want to pay to get it towed somewhere to be fixed. The only bad part was the expense, the durn thing cost $130!!

[Gomer]

Yeah, I was leaning towards wheel bearing myself. I dunno about easy to replace tho. It is the entire hub assy. that you have to replace. Need to pull the stabilizer loose from the control arm and pull the caliper PLUS the caliper mount. The caliper mount is the pain. I tried to yank it when I did the brakes a few weeks back so I could replace the rotors. The bolts holding the caliper mount on are T-60 torx head. I destroyed a bit trying to bust them loose. Had I had an impact I might have been able to break them loose, but no such luck. I only have ArmStrong tools available to me.

Once you get all that loose you need to have a puller to snatch the hub assy. off. That I can get my hands on.

Any other thoughts anyone?

[flash4master]

errm...wow...130 for a wheel bearing? i can get an inner and outter wheel bearing for my car for 15 bucks

[Gomer]

Flash... That is for the entire hub assembly. It is a sealed unit. I just priced mine out at Autozone.com for $75. Which is pretty cheap as far as hubs go.

[Kuasimodem]

The neat part about it is the ease of replacement. These steps are simplified, but they are the basics:

1. Jack up front of car and support securely (jackstands).
2. Remove wheel.
3. Remove axle nut.
4. Remove brake caliper and tie it up out of the way.
5. Remove the brake caliper mount and slide the brake rotor off the studs.
6. Tap the end of the axle to get it started out of the bearing (don't drive it all the way out, you can't!)
7. Remove the 4 bolts on the backside of the bearing/spindle assembly.
8. While rapping on the bearing/hub assembly with a hammer, pry around the hub with a BIG prybar.
9. Remove the axle the rest of the way from the bearing after the bearing comes loose from spindle by gently tapping it through.

Install the new bearing by reversing these steps, notice that you don't have to mess with any steering or stabilizer links

It took us about 3 hours, 2 Craftsman sockets, 1 Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar, and 1 Craftsman 1/2" drive rachet wrench to complete the job.

Broken tools replaced free of charge by Sears

I wonder if it was that 4' extension pipe we put on the wrench & breaker bar?

[brandon184]

Warped brake pads? That happens to my mom sometimes, because she is *always* on the brake...

- Brandon
------------

[bigblue77]

Sounds more like a CV joint going south to me. Probably the outer one.
Torx bits and impacts do not get along at all. The bits tend to shatter if you hammer on them much.
Sounds to me like you need some bigger armstrong tools. Kinda like This
That is one of my favorite tools. Well, next to this .
Well, good luck.

Jer

[Gomer]

That Torx didn't get along well with the way I was cranking on it either. The problem with getting a massive breaker bar in there is that I am limited to what will fit in the wheel well. Since I am working with the car on jackstands, I don't have the liberty of using a massive breaker like I'd be able to if the car was up on a hoist.

Bigblue: It isn't a clicking noise like you'd expect with a failing CVJ.

[Ed_S]

I just priced mine out at Autozone.com for $75. Which is pretty cheap as far as hubs go.

Watch yourself! Cut-rate parts are OFTEN "cheaper" in more ways than one!

I've been selling Ford parts at a dealership for 25+ yrs, and I've heard TONS of horror stories caused by poorly made merchandise!

(I'm not saying that any particular item or store is inferior, but... you get what you pay for!! )

Also - never EVER abritrarily rule out the dealer's just because you think it'll be expensive. We often hear of things that are higher at aftermarket sources! and I know for a fact this is common on GM parts as well!